Fretboards

I'm updating some of my methods to get more consistent results. That includes how I make fretboards. I've made a new jig to taper then and now use a set of specially designed router bits to radius the fretboards.

The tapering method is not my invention but is shown several places on the internet including:
http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?t=2169

Taper jig, the movable fence is set a specific distance from the edge
and a spacer used to create the taper

Close up of the spacer, narrow end first then the wide end

Radius router bit, this one is a 16"

Full set up for routing, need a bit better dust collection

Fretboard attached to the carrier

The result, quite smooth right off the router

Neck & Fingerboard

SO the next somewhat nerve wracking step in construction is to route the tenon on the neck to fit in to the already routed mortise. The main reason for the nerves is getting the angle of the neck right somewhere around 88 or 89 degrees. I don't actually measure the angle, I just adjust it to get the proper height above the future bridge location..

Then the fingerboard needs to be slotted and tapered, I have a nice jig I made for slotting fingerboards but of course it will not work on fanned frets.. oh well i could use my new fingerboard tapering jig..

My first time using a Japanese style saw for cutting fret slots.. works great

\Looks fine to me

The fingerboard next to the neck

My tapering jig